out of the ordinary

Because what has become ordinary has been put on hold for a couple of days. I have purple tape along a tendon line of my left leg, and frozen peas on hand. It is interesting that we can fall into routines very quickly, so that, when we quickly fall out of them, our bodies take a while to adjust ... everything takes different lengths of time to catch up. I have walked 299 miles ... give or take a metre or two ... and have only just left south west England, and am now writing this from Herefordshire. I will go back to South Wales, to the exact spot that the picture of the Wye was taken, and resume, hopefully in a couple of days time. I dreamed last night that I had continued walking, on to Monmouth, and in a half awake state this morning tried to convince myself that if I'd dreamed it, I had really walked it, and so I wouldn't have to do it again. But in order for me to say I'd walked Land's End to John O'Groats I think I would need to be awake.

I have been thinking about how inclusive just posting on facebook isn't though, and so I have tried to use this time constructively and make this blog. I was, after all, asked if I would, and I thought it would be too difficult from a phone, but apparently it isn't. So ... I'll give it a try over the next week or so and see what happens. For now, there is a selection of bits of writing below that I had already posted to facebook on the dates quoted.

For now, some reflections on the past three and a half weeks ...

I guess I never really imagined that it was such a big thing to do. I mean, I know 1233 miles is a long way, but I thought it wasn't so out of the ordinary. I have realised it is. And that it's not the easiest thing I have ever done. Times when I feel out of the ordinary are when I walk into the suburbs of a town in walking boots with mud up my legs, and a large backpack on, and realise that not everyone is dressed the same way as me; when every other guest in the campsite is in a camper van or a caravan and I feel a little bit envious; when people hand me money on the top of a hill because something has connected deep inside them which has made them realise that the freedom and welfare of a people constricted by personal and political circumstance is worth opening their wallet for; and when I am in 'bed' (sleeping bag) by 10 and up at 6, having spent the last three years of my life listening to 'Sailing By' and the beginning of the Today programme with no time for reflection, and barely any time for meaningful relationship or conversation, in between. And my faith in people has been almost instantly reconstructed .... the kindness of strangers is overwhelming at times - in a donation to the fundraising, in the help with laundry, in the buying of a drink, in the recognition of tiredness and need of encouragement, in the time for conversation and connection, and in the gift of a free night in a campsite or two. And the encouragement of friends everywhere who have been reading my posts and looking at the pictures should never be underestimated. It means such a great deal.

And some memorable things ... playing the piano and singing in a deserted church in Somerset in full waterproofs, foxes on high cliffs, sea mist, a dolphin, a knitted Easter garden, round tables in King Arthur's cafe in Tintagel, buzzards, two peregrine falcons, Lundy on a crystal clear evening on a mirror-like sea, lots of food banks, a military firing range being used, taking pictures of a GCHQ communications station (should I be writing that down?), surprisingly wide views, being chased by cattle over and over again and the immense satisfaction gained from shouting at them to 'f*** off' over and over again until they actually do, an electric fence shock (big), hanging onto a fence post above a cliff in winds strong enough to have blown me over twice already, the indescribable anxiety of being at Land's End alone, how much the M48 bridge over the Severn rattles, the pleasure of companionship, champagne, unexpected meetings with friends, singing Vivaldi under the M5, Orff under the M48, and Elton John to a herd of cows, being alone in mist, the delightfulness and strangeness of village shops, the individuality of village pubs, realising that it's not surprising that the Somerset levels flooded so badly, saints' names in Cornwall, wild camping for the first time and not alone ... and much more.

This is all for a reason ... please consider donating to the fundraising! It doesn't matter if it's 5 pence or £500 - it all helps people living in a situation most of us are lucky enough to only be able to being to imagine.

From the M48 Severn and Wye bridge

Why oh Wye

22 days walked

22 Days done ...

30th May 2014
The full, fast Wye. View from the waiting bench this morning, looking from Wales back into England. These borders confuse me. Why, oh Wye, I asked ... it didn't answer. So I am in injury time, now watching tv in Leominster, having been very kindly rescued. To be honest, some of the tears on the bridge yesterday were of pain! Hopefully this will only delay the schedule a couple of days. More soon ....


29th May 2014

Day 22. The M48 bridge (there is a footpath on it too!) over the Severn and the Wye. This is taken looking out to sea with the M4 spanning the wide view, and from exactly half way over the bridge. Half of me in England and half in Wales. As... 25% of me is welsh I found myself humming a welsh folk tune or two. I have to admit that the emotion of the moment took me by surprise. Almost 300 miles of south west England now behind. The reverie was broken by what sounded like gun shots. I thought I was mistaken with the sounds of vehicles on the bridge. And then I walked above a military firing range. They were gun shots. Welcome to Wales! The sun had eventually started to shine though. And more sun for the weekend. Relief - my tan was beginning to fade.

28th May 2014

Day 21 into Avon. A long, wet but good day into the industrial outskirts of Bristol and the Avon whilst still walking on semi-rural paths. Started very early along the Strawberry Line - an old railway line. And the most amazing coffee and scone at the garden centre in Tickenham - do go there if you're ever passing! This was after I was chased by cows again. This photo isn't great but it's from Cadbury Camp, with the first views of the crossings over the Bristol Channel. The M5 is a constant conpanion these 2 days. I sang Vivaldi under a motorway bridge. Great acoustics.

27th May 2014

Day 20. From Dolebury Warren on the Mendips. Went up to thehighest point and a beautiful non-misty ridge walk today with hazy views of the narrowing Bristol Channel and more levels, and the longer distances of tomorrow and Thursday laid out... ahead. Still only met two people walking today. Starting to think that the UK is not as populous as people say. Except that I could see the M5 and it was busy. Will see a lot more of it over the next two days as I skirt round the edge of Bristol and finally cross into Wales. I have also been very lucky to have visitors in the form of Leicestershire friends to my tent - one yesterday and one this evening! Very lovely.

26th May 2014

Day 19. Huntspill Level, Somerset. A grumpy walk to Cheddar. Waded through 3 fields of wet grass before 8am which left my feet wet all day. Was chased by cows, stung by nettles, dragged myself over overgrown stiles and unmoveable gates, det...oured 3 times due to water and crops, and got a huge shock from an electric fence. On the up-side, it was pretty, although you can see how it flooded so badly. And arrived at a lovely campsite and now sitting with a pint. Good to be back in the swing of things. And it hasn't rained yet...

23rd May 2014

Day 18 ... yes, the Quantock Hills are there somewhere. Go up them, the guide book writer said, and enjoy a glorious ridge walk with views of Somerset and the sea and Wales .... and I could barely see the map in front of me. So straight up ...and straight down the other side on the forest road. I felt like the only person in the world. Intense green mingled with still mist which became proper rain at the bottom. And silence punctuated only by bird song echoing against the sides of hills and valleys invisible. It was beautiful and also could have crossed the line into slightly frightening ... I had the Twin Peaks theme in my head .... Now the contrast of a good coffee shop in Bridgwater. A shorter day today, after 20 miles yesterday. I measured it wrong but I guess it all evens out. Yesterday I ran the risk of being struck by lightning, and ducked in fear at the frighteningly loud thunder. A long day ending with a very local local locals pub and a short ride in an old Rover 95 to the campsite on a very busy main road. People are always surprisingly lovely. Now a rest day and a half .... at last. 233 miles done. See you on the other side.

21st May 2014

Rosie on Dunkery Beacon on Exmoor today. 16 days in now and reached the Bristol Channel. It was so clear and sunny that you could almost see the Welsh people, let alone the coastline. We met a lovely elderly gentleman on the Beacon who gene...rously donated to the fundraising. And we met so many Exmoor ponies and foals. Exmoor is lovely, for a first visit. And these three days have been very good, to walk with a thoroughly nice person and a good friend. We even wild camped on a remote hill two nights ago, and watched and listened to cuckoos all evening.

17th May 2014

Day 12. Along the wooded cliffs towards Bideford Bay. Camping makes you get up very early so I must have been the first walker in the woods this morning, breaking through hundreds of cobwebs made with the dew ... the slow rumble of a languid tide far below lazily turning the stones ... the glimpse of a hare in the bluebell glade ... the unbroken silk of blue grey water ... and the red dart of a busy kestrel above still trees ...

15th May 2014

Sea mist today, Thursday. 10 days done. Yesterday and today were either going to make or break me. And I don't think I'm broken ... Have now entered Devon. The walking became remote and hard today. Only serious walkers and rock climbers about, and not many of them. But a strange sea mist today and then hot sunshine. Birds of prey - falcons and buzzards - and two bright red foxes on the cliffs, and then the best ever pint at the pub at Hartland Quay. I met a man at Morwenstow this morning - the church gardener - who took great delight in telling me a story of a man who threw his wife off the highest cliff in Cornwall, which I was about to walk up - HennaCliff. I did frighten myself by nearly walking over a cliff edge by a waterfall. (Don't tell my mother ...)

11th May 2014

In Padstow. Day 6 done. It seems Mr Stein owns half the shops in town. And I'm a non-fish eating vegetarian. I queued in the wrong queue for chips this afternoon and got chatting to Bruce, a Scot from Swansea. He gave me his number in case ...I ran out of Kendal mint cake. When people ask me where I'm heading they don't expect the reply I give. Often neither do I. It is quite a long way. But am ahead of schedule slightly. Now off to make tea by the tent. See More

10th May 2014
Day 5 done now - couldn't upload yesterday ... this is looking back at Newquay in winds you would not believe. Got blown over twice which is quite exciting on a cliff top. Definitely walking the line. Now safely in Mawgan Porth in a b&b out of the weather.


9th May 2014
Perranporth. Day 4 done. All well apart from a gorse bush incident - put my hand in the middle of it and still have thorns 3 days later - and aching muscles. Have seen two donkeys, 1 sparrowhawk, 100s of gannets, licorice allsort cows, scones, many pasty shops, 1 washing machine, sea stacks and arches, a knitted Easter garden, and the kindness of strangers.


5th May 2014
At the campsite at Sennen Cove, by Land's End. Mist everywhere - so you'll just have to believe me! There's a private anxiety about beginning a walk of 1233 miles. And it feels a long way from anywhere ..... but excited to get started and hopefully the sun will come out tomorrow. Fundraising details to follow ... not quite organised yet!