Up and out of Tyndrum the landscape opened out and it was the beginning of feeling smaller and smaller under the huge mountains, half lit under the low wisps of cloud. After a coffee at the Inveroran hotel - the place where, two years ago, an angelic figure strode into my life - it was up and onto Rannoch Moor, the last, biggest uninhabited wilderness of the UK. The massive mountains to the west still had pockets of snow, and the vast expanse of silvery streaked moor spread out to the east. About half way along the track I met a large group of walkers. It turned out they were out from Oban for the day, and one of them used to be a colleague of my dad's. So we walked together for the last few miles, and now I am having beer with two lovely Dutch men under the Buachaille Etive Mor at the top of Glencoe. Maybe this could last forever ...?
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