Days 35 & 36. Feeling northern, dales, communion, locals, generosity, the connections of water and road, and a very big house

Today I have reached 500 miles. I'm still standing and still smiling (mostly!). Yesterday began with leaving a very full campsite - this is unusual on this walk - and an 18 mile day through the Sunday morning stillness of Lindale and Dovedale and Biggindale and then up over pasture and well walked tracks in Derbyshire drizzle. The first photo is of the first northern looking view, and the second of Ilam Rock in Dovedale. Then down into a less walked and even quiter Grattondale and up over into delightful Youlgrave. The maps say 'Youlgreave' and the road signs and the locals say 'Youlgrave'. No one could explain this to me. I camped in a basic site at a farm in the middle of the village and valiantly managed to wash my hair under a cold tap in the tiniest sink imaginable. And, as it was Sunday evening and the bells were ringing, I went to church. This is the first time since Night Prayer on my final night at Launde and most of you will understand I haven't missed it. There were 10 of us scattered in the usual Anglican way around vast pews, but we all made a good attempt at singing big Trinitarian hymns. And the accents again different from those I have travelled through over the past weeks. I still know all the words to the service ....The vicar generously gave me a donation towards the fundraising. And then I spent the rest of the evening in the pub, writing, glancing briefly at the world cup game, and chatting to a local called Derek with an interesting past who made me promise to send the pub a postcard when I get to John O'Groats, and another watery eyed chap who seems to spend his days walking slowly between both pubs either end of the village street. This morning the farmer made me coffee in the brief morning sun to the accompaniment of the cows calling. They were up all night too - obviously a lot to say. Today a short day, and the third photo is of the Wye which I crossed again and if you look closely, the A6, which also goes through Oadby! A day of two estates -Haddon Hall and Chatsworth, which is the fourth photo. It's very dominating. I met a chap coming up to this view as I was about to descend. He told me some of the history of the estate, including why the village of Edensor is there (which you must visit if you're ever passing) and where they let Mary Queen of Scots outside when she was under arrest (is that the right terminology?). And he said he'd have a 'noggin' of whisky on my behalf on the 8th August. I'll definitely be having one or two. So, proper moorland tomorrow and then time with another friend.